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5. Greek Salento
This is a geographical area that still keeps the memory of old Greek
colonization and the progressive Hellenization and Greek-Byzantine civilization of
Southern Italy. It now includes the villages of Calimera, Castrignano dei
Greci, Corigliano d’Otranto, Martano, Martignano, Melpignano, Soleto,
Sternatia, Zollino, in the heart of east Salento. Griko, the idiom
or dialect, is surprisingly close to modern Greek. This Greek enclave can be easily reached by car from Lecce,
Otranto and
Gallipoli. «We are Greeks, and this ensures our glory», wrote
Galateo, and he is right. Not only in the legends which portray nearly all
these villages as miraculously escaping from the hurricanes and typhoons,
usually owing to the intercession of Eastern saints, Greek Salento is
still rich of amazing historical and artistic remains, which range from
menhirs, dolmens and specchie or mounds/cairns (the famous Specchia dei
Mori, in Martano) to «pietra forata» or «fertility stone» in Calimera, in
San Vito church, which in terms of the symbolism of purification and
rebirth recalls analogous propitiatory rites of neighbouring Greece; from
the stately beautiful icons in Baseline coenobies to the crypts (San
Biagio’s crypt in Calimera is in the homonymous natural-archaeological
park; that of Sant’Onofrio in Castrignano dei Greci dates back to the 6th
century, while San Sebastian crypt in Sternatia dates back to 1100), to
monastic centres, to castles (in particular Corigliano d’Otranto’s castle,
from the 15th century, and the Granafei fort in Sternatia), to churches
(the Baroque Agostinian convent complex in Melpignano,
Sternatia’s bell tower and Soleto’s Gothic spire; also the frescoes in
Soleto, in the 4th century church Santo Stefano, and the parish dedicated
to Assunta, in Martano are among the most impressive), to the noble houses
in Martano, Corigliano d’Otranto, Calimera and Martignano, and up to the
typical «pozzelle» in Castrignano dei Greci, di Soleto and di Zollino, old
underground engineering for rain water conservation. These villages
share the survival
or memory of Greek rites, which were widespread here until the 17th
century; the Greek gloss, roots of which are buried in local
toponymy and in the originality of the architecture (the communal
courtyards painted in blinding white, the balconies, the rhombus shaped
decorations). These traditions make this area the only one like this in the world,
and really worth a visit.
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